5-1-09

Friday, May 1, 2009

We woke up early, had breakfast, and then took the 10 to the bus station. We bought tickets for the Supra bus which was only a few Euros more and was totally VIP. We got little goodie bags with earphones, a bottle of water, nuts, and little packaged almond pastries. There was tons of room and the seats were pretty comfortable – the only disappointment for me was that there wasn’t WiFi as advertised. Tough luck for Jeff who didn’t print his return ticket and didn’t know his account number. Right away when we got there we had to stop at an internet café so he could get back to Granada! Then we went to the Cathedral (third biggest in the world, the biggest by cubic area). I was so happy to finally go inside since we didn’t have time on our first trip to Sevilla. We saw Isabel’s crown, Colombus’s tomb, the retablo mayor (GOLD), and then went up the huge bell tower. We waited around for them to ring and it was LOUD.
We grabbed some ice cream (obviously one of our first stops, c’mon) and I had some delicious cheesecake and chocolate ice cream in a waffle cone. Mmm. We headed toward Plaza de España and tried to hide from Christine as we passed by.. I bought a flower clip and an abanico (fan) which were totally worth it. The man was so rude though and I couldn’t understand why he wouldn’t be nice to paying customers, it just doesn’t make sense. Anyway, we walked around, took some pictures, watched the Gitanos freak out, then ate our bocadillos while we waited for Christine. We tried to get a carriage ride but they were twice the price of usual since it’s the feria – dumb. The horses were as decked out as the people were! We paid ,20€ to use the public bathroom but all of us girls ended up sneaking in so we didn’t have to pay five times. I hate paying to use the restroom.
After that we made our way down the Guadalquivir to the fairgrounds and the number of people dressed up in the traditional clothing skyrocketed the closer we got. There was a stand giving out free mini gazpachos and Cassandra accidently dropped hers which splattered all over Christine. You know how looks can kill? Well I was legitimately worried that she might be harmed in the process. It was hilarious.. Anyway, we finally got there and things were just out of control. Horses, carriages, flamenco (Sevillana), rebujito (7up and Manzanilla), music, casetas, and people everywhere. There was even an area with theme park rides. The casetas were all private – sort of like little wedding parties all lined up – but we eventually found a couple public ones where we could go in. We wandered around for a while and just took it all in until everyone was hot, grouchy, and sunburned so we peaced out and tried to find a bar or café where we could sit until the bullfight. Well, everything even outside was packed (sidenote – I saw the biggest paella EVER) so we parked it on a little bench and people-watched for a while. Eventually we got up and finished our paseo along the river past the Torre de Oro and to the bullring. Mandy, I thought of you here – I think it’s right by where you lived! Jeff and I got everyone’s tickets then we went to a little café nearby where we thankfully found some seats to relax in until it started.
We drew tickets anonymously for our seats but there was more drama with that (Christine). Mitch, Jeff, and Whitney were sitting together in a different section than Cassandra, Taylor, Christine, and I but we all ended up in the sol seats – luckily there was some natural sombra and it wasn’t too hot because I can definitely see how someone could melt at a bullfight. We sat behind this group of really nice guys who apparently have season tickets and it was so cute how they kept explaining things and answering our questions. Even though we had already learned about tauromaquía in Granada Seminar, it was really nice to have them there. They were so proud to share their knowledge and love of bullfighting and they kept asking us what we thought and if we liked it. To tell you the truth, before I went I thought I was going to hate it but once it started I really got into it and I was yelling OLÉ! with the rest of them.
Even before the first bull came out, I loved it right from the start. But first the parade entered with all of the horses, picadors, matadors, toreros, etc., we heard the band play, saw the president give the official ok, and spied some beautiful “women of the feria” in the VIP seats. So then the first bull came charging out and they played with it for a while tiring him out. The picador came out on that poor horse (I do feel bad for the horses..) and gave him a couple little jabs to get the blood flowing and weaken him before the banderillas came. Aka the best part, especially the first bull – it was awesome! The guy had no protection, not even a cape but he did a little dance move, the bull charged at him, then spin-moved around and jabbed the banderilla into his back. The bull was a little stunned but followed him all the way to the edge where the guy hopped over the fence and confused the bull even more. After 2 more they play with him for a little while until the president gives the ok, the matador puts down his hat, switches for the real sword, then stabs it through the back of his neck. He’s supposed to puncture the heart so the bull dies quickly but a couple of them took a while to croak. They sort of wave the capes around him to make him dizzy until he lays down, and sometimes they had remove the sword or jab the back of his head with a dagger until he’s really out. When they’re good and dead the horses come out, the horns are hooked up with a rope and chains and he’s dragged out of the arena leaving a nice trail of blood behind. One of the bulls had poco fuerza, was cojo, no quería pelear, and the whole crowd screamed “fuera!” and clapped three times until they brought out a heard of white and brown bulls to bring him back into the pen. The next one they brought out was WAY better.
The men in front of us said that each time it should be so beautiful that it gives you goosebumps and it was so true! It’s just a true fight between man and beast once everyone leaves the arena and he goes in for the kill. I’m so happy that we got to go to a bullfight, especially during the Feria en Sevilla!
I loved how traditional and stereotypical the whole thing was. It was just totally over exaggerated and wonderful :) The men were so cocky and arrogant, but I guess that’s part of the “arte” that is bullfighting. The traje de luz (sequin suit) with it’s ridiculous colors, fluorescent pink socks, and ballet flats was awesome, especially on the third matador – “guapo!” He was awarded an ear after the crowd waved their white pañuelos because of his valiant performance against the most bravo bull and we got to see him up close and personal on his way out of the arena! Wow.
After our special encounter we met up with the other three, grabbed some food, and waited at the bus station until it was time to go back on the midnight bus. It was a long ride but definitely worth it.